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Is It Possible To Design An Engagement Ring Without Prongs?


We get it. When you’ve invested a lot of money in a diamond ring you want to see every single facet of it. So, is it possible to design an engagement ring without claws?  The answer is… Yes! Of course! Here a few different setting options we use at DDS Diamonds to achieve that floating diamond effect for you to consider.

SUSPENSION SETTING

Suspension set rings, aptly known as Tension set rings, are named as such because the centre diamond is held in place by the tension of the band either side. Imagine you have a plain gold ring that you cut through on one side and try to pull  apart. Now here’s where it gets tricky. If the ring is too thin, you may be able to pull it apart, in which case, the metal  is not strong enough to have a  tension setting. It will only work well when the gold is thick and strong enough that when a vice pulls the ring apart, a stone can be placed in the gap and the metal springs back and holds the stone tight. Whilst beautiful, problems with suspension set rings arise when the gold is too thin or soft and doesn’t spring back after being pulled apart. Even handmade tension set rings, where the gold is hard, every day wear  can work the stone loose. So what we do at DDS is hide a small brace under the stone, where it cannot be seen. This holds the ring together and increases the longevity of a DDS ring.       

BEZEL SETTING

A Bezel set ring is where the diamond or gemstone is totally surrounded by a rim of metal that is pushed over the stone all the way around. The benefits of this type of setting is its strength and durability. The stone is totally protected by metal. The down side of this setting type is that many people like to see the edge of the stone and some  argue that surrounding the stone with  metal will reduce the light getting to the stone. This seems to be true for coloured stones as they rely on their base colour, but the light in diamonds goes in through the top, hits the back facets and is rebounded out the front, so the brightness is less effected by the bezel setting, making it a beautiful setting option in our opinion. However, if this is a concern for you we recommend the Half bezel setting,  where the bezel has a ¼ cut out on each side. This style creates a lighter looking design but a large area of the stones girdle is exposed to damage, so you just need to be more careful with this setting style.

HALF CHANNEL SETTING

Half channel set designs are usually for square Princess cuts or rectangular stones. This is where two sides of the stone have a metal setting whilst  the opposite two sides are bare so the girdle is visible. It’s a modern look with the straight lines and simplicity – a setting we love! That floating diamond engagement ring effect is beautiful, very tricky to achieve but here at DDS we’ve spent many years perfecting it. If this is the style you’re after we recommend really doing your research into how the ring will be manufactured and only going to a reputable jeweller you trust, the safety of your stone depends on it.

 Richard Moser

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